Konya, in a whirl of its own
November 13, 2023We t ‘s the heart out of Turkey. Konya, a neighborhood regarding a million souls, squatting slap in Anatolia’s wild simple, surrounded by unlock, limitless prairie. Turkey’s really culturally conservative urban area, Konya looks in the beginning are an area from strict headscarves and you may foreboding beards, away from ostentatiously noticed pieties and forbidden drinks. But discovering Konya is not difficult – for here, at the heart of one’s dated urban area, inside the tomb from turquoise tiles, is Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is one of the world’s really discover poets. Throughout his lifestyle, and because his death into the 1273, pilgrims attended to Konya. Today, Rumi’s tomb was Turkey’s 2nd extremely-went along to travelers destination following Topkapi Palace within the Istanbul. Rumi is actually a mystical, a beneficial Sufi saint whom appreciated most of the religions, and you can whose own religion was love. Their supporters create (whilst still being create) dump by themselves for the hypnotic trance and you can dance, often spinning like passes all day long.
There’s an enormous, unbelievable new civil auditorium where that it delicate whirling human dancing are did, and you may one level of charming sleek-eyed mystics in the carpeting stores, cafes and you can gothic bazaars, all the happy to receive you to definitely a personal zikhr
Such whirling dervishes are in reality the brand new symbol from Turkey’s tourist strategies, and you can drink beverage on your Istanbul lodge reception viewing certain worst bloke during the a tall beige considered cap whirling to own your own entertainment. Towards the real deal, regardless if, already been heree in order to Konya and you visited Turkey’s spirit. Inside Rumi’s conditions:
“Anyone who you’re, become Even if you may be An enthusiastic infidel, an excellent pagan, or a great fireworshipper, become The brotherhood is not certainly one of anxiety Though you have damaged Your own vows away from repentance a hundred times, already been.”
Just about every year once the 1983, I’ve been upcoming on a couple of billion-or-thus travelers who visit Konya a year. Most are Turkish, while most Iranians (whom claim Rumi as his or her own, since he typed within their vocabulary and you may grew up in east Persia) along with result in the pilgrimage.
Instead of while making Konya a stop for the a shuttle tour, I would recommend becoming for some weeks, taking in an impact, dinner a few of Turkey’s better mutton, watching the greatest Seljuk buildings and you may – possibly – dropping crazy about Rumi. You might fly within the cheaply regarding Istanbul, where there is an effective scruffy, atmospheric teach, or appear by-road. Konya is during easy come to of your own cavern dwellers and you can carpeting vendors out-of Cappadocia.
Rumi arrived right here since a boy, whenever Konya had come a city for a couple of,000 ages. It absolutely was built because of the Hittites, who were been successful by the Phrygians, then the Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the fresh new kings regarding Pergamon additionally the Romans, whom called the set Iconium. Saints Paul and Barnabus each other preached right here, but by 1071 this new Seljuks, a beneficial Turcoman group, was responsible, and their architectural history endures.
Their Karatay Medrese regarding 1251 is a masterpiece off elaborate tiling and you can harmonious domes. It is now the latest Art gallery of Tiles and you will Ceramics, whose information take care of the vibrancy and you will strike that they had when first discharged. Nearby, the new Ince Minarali Medrese became the latest Art gallery from Stone and you will Timber Sculpture, which will be way less deceased than just We have made it sound. Those two structures whet your appetite to find the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and the amazing Sahip Ata mosque: unlike most of the brand new Muslim globe, into the Turkey you’re encouraged to see mosques, any sort of your spiritual choice.
At the junction of the dated area and its unattractive the latest neighbour ‘s the Alaaddin mosque, the newest city’s vantage part, whose breathtaking dark pulpit and you will sensitive prayer-specific niche come from 1155 (the state-of-the-art was completed in 1221). The boulevard radiating from this point provides that Rumi’s tomb, at which significantly more later on. Rumi is recognized to Turks because Mevlana (the latest Sainted You to definitely), and after this Konya is in thrall so you’re able to Mevlanamania.
As i earliest appeared, Mevlana’s followers, the latest Mevlevi, had been a banned organisation, accepted only for the “folkloric moving” and whirlings. Group meetings happened covertly, illegally.
I pointed out food, as well. Konya’s mutton-centric food is very good. Etli ekmek was a long, thin move-right up pizza pie pass on that have delicately spiced mince, and Konya kebab is actually a lamb shank, most reduced roasted and supported toward a support from bread which have a nice yellow onion. A was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +90 332 352 85 47), whose soup and do-it-yourself yogurt is actually paradise-produced.
Ergo, remarkably provided, with of many cups of sweet tannic teas inside you, create your way to Rumi’s tomb. Your join the awestruck, the new interested additionally the fervent. A strange twinkly light plays on the tombs out of Rumi and their followers. The brand new structure try padded that have calligraphy, while the ceilings is a beneficial kaleidoscope from splendidly executed arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is covered from inside the greatly padded content regarding silver, and you can generally seems to radiate light and you can serenity and mercy.
Are common moved, getting we have found like
Some of your own fellow pilgrims often comprehend Korans, while others Rumi’s poetry. Extremely just take pictures, while this is purely forbidden. You can find people who cry gently, and those who make fun of out loud; those who meditate from day to night, and people who hurry through.
Playing on the side and insinuating in itself to your consciousness ‘s the ney, good reed flute. It sounds such as for example breathy air, it is really the voice out-of fire, and that goes up and you will falls in to the all of us. This isn’t specific sullen religious whining, nevertheless sound from yearning, away from communion, of your own heart. Brasiliansk kvinner pГҐ jakt etter amerikanske ektemenn You may have it – it’s spirit audio, also it most supplies you with. So already been.
Turkish Airlines (020-7471 6666) flies in order to Konya through Istanbul regarding Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you will Manchester, of ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul so you can Konya by the rail can cost you from all around ?24 get back, or just around ?thirty six get back because of the shuttle. Resort Balikcilar have rooms or around ?70 (and have suits cooler beers). Hotel Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) room as much as ?20. Passes to see the latest spinning dervishes was without new subscribers office, behind Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum within SeleneTour (+90 532 564 9192, ) organizes individual whirling and you may zikhr from ?30pp.